Photo: Scott Aichner
"I think the actual act of surfing is a little over-rated. Sure it's fun, but my peak experiences frequently come when I'm not standing on a board. Few things in life create long term memories like a heavy wipeout. It can be tuff to recall a good ride after the next set, but a solid spanking stays fresh for decades." - Grant Washburn (surfer, cinematographer)
In surfing, it's the journey that counts, not the destination. Kirby Brown, in no hurry to reach the shoulder, taken in by his surroundings... in Western Oz.
No comments:
Post a Comment