Photo: Dave Chamonix
Whether 8 or 80 we surfers still remember how to play. Some try to make it a sport... trying to beat someone at something is not playing... the ocean knows how to play... sometimes we say next wave and I am going in... but she thinks... dont go home yet... I still want to play... and so we wait wondering why all of a sudden there are no waves... so we wait and she plays with us...
- Bear Woznick -
John McCarthy, a man of God and huge waves, knows a thing or two about his creator. A moment of faith at Aileens, Ireland.
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