Monday Morning Wave

Photo: Alfredo Escobar

When I lived in Japan, I studied many spiritual practices - Zazen, Aikido, Kendo, reciting Okyo or the Lotus Sutra, and chanting sutras under a cold waterfall. Each brought a kind of meditative calm, but I realized, as the Obo-san explained about the dynamics of waterfall meditation, the infusion of Ki energy from the cascading water and the benefits of the negative ions, that we, as surfers, already participate in this form of meditation. It's all in one's attitude. Our experience, as surfers, provides all the challenges to our character that the powerful sea has to offer, but the well of healing is just as deep.

- Mark Gray -

Waves like the foothills of the Andes - Chile size and thunder in the afternoon. The biggest day of the year in Punta de Lobos. Ramon Navarro on the wave, Cristian Merelo on the ski - just two surfers out and 100 surfers on land